In most cases, rust build up on the interior of the Knuckle Hole will fuse the old Hub in place. I don't think I'll feel comfortable until I try and they don't move at all. More tips: - Make sure the both hub face and wheel is clean of rust debris, etc. Ensure that the dust shield is not placed on backwards. The wheels are aftermarket Enkei's with tuner lugs.
If more force is required, screw on the Axle Shaft nut on to the shaft to protect the shaft threads from hard hammer impacts. Otherwise, the hub assembly could be jarred free from the knuckle with hammer impacts; something I personally do not prefer to do but have know others to have done. I also try to recheck after the first few hundred miles. You'll appreciate this the next time you have to change a flat on the side of the road. I checked them after ~70 km, and a few of them needed tightening. The fronts seem to need it more than the rears.
Lastly universal rule on whl. The Nissan Murano front wheel bearings are relatively easy to replace. Turning the Steering Wheel will allow the Knuckle to be moved to a better position for bolt removal. The hub and bearing assembly are bolted on to the steering knuckle whereas most front wheel drive vehicles have their bearings and hubs press fitted in. IdaCrue wrote:Maintenance manual says 80 ft- lb or 108 N-m or 11 kg-mAlso on pg 8-37 of your owners manual 85 ft-lb is what I torque the lug nuts on all my cars to. A wire brush would work nicely.
If not, the Hub Bearing is mounted up-side-down. A few careful hammer blows on the hub might free it lose, but my preference is to pull it lose using a Slide Hammer. Afterwards, the lower Caliper bolt can be removed to swing the Piston Caliper up to remount the pad and recess the piston with a C clamp. This could cause the wheel to not fit squarely and wobble. Afterwards, apply a thin coat of grease or anti-seize compound. Should I be torquing them to a higher spec? You should be using a 'cross' pattern: ie: 1,3,5,2,4.
This will prevent the wheel from seizing to the hub. . Both problems corrected themselves with the wheel hub bearing being replaced. I decided to check again after another 70 km, and some of them needed tightening again. .
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