I had to do one when I worked at Ford on one of their cars. This would be the case if the sending unit is shorted, and Vref would almost be reading a 0V ground signal. When the fuel level is low, resistance in the sending unit is low. First thing you need to do is check all the fuses and make sure you are getting power to the gauge. I got all happy cause I finally had a working gauge on it lol.
The sender is a variable resistor connected to the float in the fuel tank which determines the amount of fuel in the tank Anti-Slosh Module. When the sender moves up and down in the tank the voltage at the gauge does the same. Feel free to share pictures of your truck, adventures, modifications, and even your new sound system. My gauge is still wonky. It's not really something that needs to be fixed. Have you heard of this? That will help out alot though, thank you! My mechanic told me to fill the tank, violently rock the van passenger to drivers side rt to left or left to rt by standing on the step or rear tire and grabbing the roof rack for about 10 sec and that would dislodge the float stuck near the top of the tank.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view discussions and access other forum features. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Fuel Gauge The magnetic gauge movement consists of three primary coils, one of which is wound at a 90-degree angle to the other two. Make sure it's not going through the unit first. Fuel Sending Unit The fuel sending unit consists of a variable screened resistor made up of a ceramic substrate. The gauge moves to the resting position when the truck is off but only rises to one line above E. It consists of a magnetic fuel gauge 9280 mounted in the instrument cluster 10849 and a sending unit located in the fuel tank 9002 with an instrument cluster gauge amplifier 10E849 in series between the two.
Well here's the problem, soon as I turn the key to on or start the truck the fuel gauge goes down to E and stays there. The reason why they cant get it is bc its become obsolete. Anyone know if they're available anywhere anymore or do you have to get one from a junkyard? Only put the lead on ground bolts or the frame. Is the 5V regulator, pull up resistor behind the paper circuit board i know its not paper, but the flexible circuit board , I dont think i remember seeing anything sticking out of them besides the light bulb sockets, and the anti slosh unit. The fuel gauge is connected to the fuel gauge sender through the Anti-Slosh Module. There is no adjustment, calibration or maintenance required for these gauges.
For measuring vref, you should keep everything plugged in. I started reading about the anti slosh module didn't know they even had one and my gut tells me that's the problem. Inspect printed circuit to ensure loop connecting fuel sender input to fuel gauge is cut. Install rotunda gauge tester in circuit. It is controlled by the action of an attached float in the fuel tank.
An open circuit will indicate infinity on the ohmmeter and a short will indicate zero ohms. Id check to see if the ground wire is pinched before you shell out money for a new one if you find one lol but yeah, thatd be my next step I guess I don't know how to check the actual gauge itself. My next move is to take the bed off and see if the sending unit is stuck. He bought the van new for a race bike hauler and shortly after the gauge quit. Then take divide 5V by the amperage to figure out the pull up resistor value. The needle doesn't rapidly move back and forth.
I tested the Bosch unit before I installed it and the sender read perfectly. I'm having the same problem with my 1997 f250. The fuel gauge not working or the fuel pump stopping to work is a safety concern. The fuel gauge should read empty at 22. The ohms were low when the float was all the way down, and went up when the float went up so it seems that that is fine.
Set tester to 22-ohm position. Set rotunda gauge tester to 145-ohm setting. The electrical connections for ignition, ground, input from fuel sender and output to fuel gauge are made through a spring-type connector on the instrument cluster gauge amplifier to the instrument cluster printed circuit 10K843 on the instrument cluster. Granted if its the ground squashed, it would give me a good condinuity signal as well I suppose. The anti-slosh modules reads Vref which is the voltage drop across the the sending unit.
Repair as necessary and repeat test. I initially thought that maybe the float was stuck, but, after doing some research, I'm thinking it may be the anti slosh module that's supposed to keep the fuel gauge from fluctuating as the gas moves inside the tank. Thanks Seth So I check condinuity with my ohms meter, and it seems i have good wires from gauge to the sending unit, got two different anti-slosh units from the junk yard and neither of those fixed it, new sending unit and fuel pump, and still didnt fix the gas gauge. Using this value and the resistance at the sender you can probe the yellow white wire while its connected and compare it to the calculated value to see if its correct. Does it sound like the anti-slosh module? Ford says they can not get me a new anti-slosh board, so I went and got a couple from teh junk yard thinking the odds of 2 more being bad were slim to none.
You could use the ground for the sender but that should be straight to ground. I test the old sending unit and the ohms readings were all way off so i purchased a new pump and sending unit and tested the ohms on it before i put it in. Please see the equation in the picture. Apparently people have had similar issues after fuel pump replacements. No instrument voltage regulator is used with this system. If the voltage is high as the sending unit resistance approaches infinity, indicating an open circuit, the gauge will show full and be reading a voltage closer to 5 V. I may have to wait till my stepdad comes back from his vaca at the end of the week and have him come help with this part.