I don't like to do that because I've seen many pictures that were wrong. Unplug a brown wire may not be brown that is by itself and has a plastc clip connection. You have to remove the plastic cover at the top of the firewll on the passenger side. I even bought a new timing light thinking my old Craftsman was defective, but both give me the same reading. It is controled by the computor, There is no ajustment needed.
I disconnected the Electronic Spark Timing wire from the distributor just to see if condition improves. Reinstall the push rods and pre-load the valve lash according to the cam manufacturer's instructions. Okay you wizards out there, a friend has a nice 55 chevy that he put a 350 with fast burn heads and 292 comp cam. He said he does it that way in case the balancer has slipped. Clear control module trouble code by disconnecting control module power source.
Uh, actually that location is for the S10 4. Drain the oil and engine coolant. But everyone always says to make sure your timing is set correctly before messing with the carb, so I figured it would be good to know where it was actually set. I have heard of static timing, don't know what that is though. Remove the camshaft lifters from the engine top-side, from the lifter valley. I'm not going to go into this aspect any further as it doesn't really apply to a bone stock 350 Chevy, a word to the wise is sufficient and anyone who takes a wrench in their hand is ultimately responsible for what they do with it.
Maybe it is something as simple as that. We have it running, starting, and it revs good and so on. Usually its close enough to get it started but still needs dynamic timing to get dialed in. Tighten the cam sprocket bolts to 20 pound-feet of torque. Scrape and clean the gasket surfaces of each. I can get engine to run better with it disconnected, setting timing at 4 to 6 degrees advance at idle and it jumps to 8 to 10 degrees advanced under throttle.
Reinstall the timing cover with new gaskets and reattach the oil pan to the lower portion of the timing cover. There are no symptoms of overly advanced ignition timing, late cam timing, there is only a measurement on the light and a mark on the balancer. I'm just curious why the initial and total is shifted so far up the range? Insert the lifters into the lifter bores. Remember to plug off the vaccuum advance on the dist. How can we go about getting this motor properly timed??? Pinging starts its damage long before you can hear it.
With that in mind I always check them with a piston stop test before I get my light. Did you put the new dist. Replace all engine fluids to their proper levels. Rotate the engine by hand so that the two timing marks on both sprockets are aligned. Find the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and put a dab of whiteout on it to see it better with the light.
If you did this you should be able to time it with a light. Additionally, careful attention must be given, when re-installing the replacement parts, in order for the engine to run properly upon completion of the swap. I disconnected it and there was no change on the timing mark on balancer. Re-start the engine following the cam manufacturer's instructions. Basic tool needed is a timing light. Something just isn't adding up.
Pull carpet back to expose the single wire and connectors on the outside of the control module harness. It's become automatic for me. If you dont want to pay for the repair manuals, go to the library and look them up than after getting the information. Remove several of the most forward oil pan bolts and loosen the remaining bolts so that the front of the oil pan can be lowered to allow the timing cover to be removed. Remove several of the front oil pan bolts and loosen the remainder so that the oil pan can be partially lowered away from the timing cover.
But here's what I see. . The distributor rotates in a clockwise direction. As you look at the engine from the front. If the chain jumped then you'll have to t … urn the cam until the mark on the cam gear is pointing straight down and turn the crank so the mark on the crank gear is pointing straight up at the mark on the cam gear before you put the chain on and tighten the bolts.
Allow for at least 24 inches of room so that the camshaft can be slid forward out of the engine block. Jump on to discuss axles, suspensions, engines, mudders, 4x4s and more. If you don't really care about the one that's on there now, it's a bit easier to do. This Will Be Displayed in Timing Degrees. I ask you to do this before you warm up the engine because if it is difficult to loosen you don't want to be doing this when the engine is hot. First, remove the screw inside the armrest pocket from the top.