Make sure the end of the wire does not touch any other terminals or you will blow a fuse. Then the ahha moment, tried to check for spark by holding the spark plug against the engine body and starting the car but I did not see any spark. Ok, the inhibitor relay , although has 6 pins like the other 3, does not have the same pin arrangement so switching is not possible. With the ignition turned to on position, voltage at terminals 1,2 not the relay of course is at 12. Recommed that you use a mechanic but, it has been suggested that you remove the serpentine belt and the oil filter and other parts underneath to get to it from the bottom. When I would start my car it would rev high.
The wear and tear was minimal. I just need to find a buddy with a tow truck. However, it will start for a couple seconds with starting fluid. Oh, we say we're sophisticated, that we're beyond the trickery that Detroit used to foist upon the buying public. Distributor Cap and Rotor Kit: Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Cap. All light are ok, stereo, wiper, etc.
I also tried pulling out all 4 relays and visually check each one. Maybe your mechanic neighbor friend can recommend a place? Replaced that sensor, an 02 sensor of some-sort, and spark plugs. This should definitely be a recalled by Nissan. Fuel Pump Faulty Fuel Pump. I have a ramp, but I can't imagine how it can be useful.
I would do the relay test first though. And that switch that Haynes is talking about maybe the same switch, but this is what we are checking anyway. Carburetor: Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor. That is the next step - You must complete that step - to continue troubleshooting. An injector cleaning kit may help.
Remove the air cleaner with a screwdriver to gain access to the starter, and tap on it. Also tried a jumper cable on terminals 1,2 and 6,7 and heard no click. Jan 16, 2013 The click is most likely the starter solenoid you hear Should be a familiar sound you've heard may times on other cars I would guess you know how old the battery is? Bring it back to the mechanic and he tells me that it was just a blown fuse but if the fuse kept blowing that I would have to replace my starter. Before they towed it they tested my battery and said that it was fine. When we tried to jump start the car, it took a long time until it finally started and after a few minutes I went dead again. Test battery, there may be ground short sucking the life out of you battery.
What's happening now is that the computer is not even recognizing my transponder key. Car is old, recommend go to junkyard and but use Starter. I did an ohm test between the ground control pin on the fuel injector connector and the car ground. Service advisor said logic dictates it should be but its not. We'll never fall for that piece of chrome makes it more luxurious trick.
I appreciate your staying with me on this and providing expert assistance. It now has 192K miles and still runs like a top. Some times it shakes like a washer machine. I am now looking for one that supports all five protocols. I asked service advisor if valet key can be reprogrammed like master key. The ones located in close proximity to the firewall are fusible links not relays , there is a relay box adjacent to this on the left side of engine but they're mostly relays for radiator, ac, fog lamp, abs, etc.
Contact a mechanic about replacing the starter if this also fails. If you hear nothing, its most likely it, try a few times, then get out and rock the car back and forth a couple times from side to side, at this point the wire which is half broken inside may align itself, try listening again, if you are able to start car, then get the sending unit or fuel pump harness kit, forget which it was, but the wire that is bad is the one that connects to top of the fuel tank seal and the other side to the fuel pump. You need to get some other diagnosis' from other places, preferably an independent shop with a good rep. . Do you know for sure that the engine is turning over, but not firing? Nissan Tech said only dealer can clear this so you gonna have to bring your car to the dealer. The problem however is, I don't know which one is for the starter because they're not labeled and each one looks the same.
If you tell me the numbers at the base next to each pin on the relay I can tell you what to test. Posted on Sep 02, 2009 As per a Haynes manual the switch appears to be attached to the trans axle near where the linkage attaches. That security light does nothing, just a thief deterrent, see below what I have described, sound like it too. I do not know where the starter relay is on the Altima, but the ignition relay is another animal altogether works the same, looks the same, but is used for another system - it is generally used to supply energy to the ignition system ignition coil, module, etc. My thinking at this point is that the ignition switch itself is the prime candidate for the culprit. .