I would appreciate any advise on this subject. This may be enough to get the pump to work again. I checked and there is no power getting to the fuel pump. In other words, the volume of fuel injected does not depend on engine load for a given pulse. The original wiring is designed to not exceed 30A of power. Fuel flow is absolutely imperative on any car, especially on turbocharged Wankels.
The lead that normally activates the fuel pump should go to switch the relay on, with the opposite connector going to ground. On the fuel pump side of the wiring, the two topmost thicker wires are power and ground. The relay has 4 connectors. It might be buried a bit, so keep looking. They are called a sequential turbo. If any part of this is unclear, please let me know. The pulsation damper smoothens these fluctuations.
Last but definitely not least, make sure you change your fuel filter at least every 30,000 miles. If your car has the original injectors, pay attention! If the engine has a lot of miles, you may be experiencing combustion seal wear. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life. You can ground the fuel pump separately or just attach it to the same ground wire it used in the past on the harness. Replacing this part every 30,000 miles will keep this from ever becoming an issue. Run a wire from the spliced terminals B and F to the fuel pump positive lead.
If not, check your wiring for good connections. Here's what you want to do - use the power lead that normally comes into the fuel pump and the ground on the car side of the wiring harness to turn the relay on and off. Leave enough slack on both sides of the cut - we'll be re-splicing the connections in. It is on the upper part of the intake manifold. For More Information Go To Www.
Just take your time with it. I cannot find any fuse or fusible link that controls the fuel hot wire, but it's dead with the ignition on. This relay is rated at such a level that there is no way to exceed its rating. But none were below average in reliabilty that I know of. Considerations when rewiring the pump. They are fully adjustable and can bypass enough fuel for any size pump you can throw at them. Quality Airtex in-tank fuel pumps deliver optimum performance while providing long life.
The secondary injectors are active only when the rpm are above 3,500 and the engine is under heavy load heavy acceleration or high speed cruising. The recommended interval is 24 months or 30,000 miles. So, now you've got your resistor and relay with a cut off connector. You can put the transmission fluid in a 1993 Mazda Mx6 v6 from where you check the dip of transmission fluid. Under the squab is a service panel that will have a few screws holding it down. Old fuel filters allow debris to slip past and clog injectors, impede fuel flow and put your engine at risk. The pulsation damper is a necessary part of the fuel system, but commonly ages and starts to leak.
Would like to check and see if it is the same problem you had before replacing the pump. Refer to the Universal Fuel Pump Application Reference Guide for details. This drops the fuel pump voltage to 9v at idle and cruise to improve fuel economy. On a mazda rx-7 86-88, the pulsation damper may fail and cause fuel to spill onto the engine, creating a fire hazard. So why is the system not turning on the relay? You should hear the fuel pump running.
I'm also assuming that you know all the standard procedures for wiring stuff - solder your connections, heat shrink tube or electrical tape all bare wire, etc. I did it with a med seringin. Basically it is leaking inside and needs rebuilding. On many cars, it has never been replaced. One less thing that could be wrong then. There is no such relay on the non turbo model.